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 Gondar:
Africa's Camelot
by
Jerry W. Bird
 As
our minibus rolled into Gondar, after a short
flight from Lalibela, there was ample evidence that
here was an area destined for long range
development as a destination resort. Several new
industries attest to this growing trend, as did our
conversation with entrepreneurs at the airport and
later at the hotel. Our modern, government operated
hotel, the Goha was perched like a sentinel on a
hilltop, with a commanding view of the city and
countryside.
Gondar
was Ethiopia's capital and principal city during
the reign of Emperor Fasilidas in the 17th century.
Perhaps that's why I expected to find it a shrine
to past glories, instead of an active, bustling
community, with people filling the streets, shops
doing a brisk business, and scores of gaudily
painted horse and buggy taxis (garis) scooting
every which way, like bumper cars at a
midway.
Several of
our group decided to try this hair raising means of
transport, and it became a highlight of their day,
trotting through the narrow alleys of this
centuries old
capital.
Thanks to a
massive government initiative, many of the castles,
palaces and royal structures built by the early
Emperors are being carefully restored. These
treasures of Gondar include the stone bathhouse of
Emperor Fasiladas and the ruined Palace of Kusquam.
We also entered the church of Debre Brhan Selassie,
to gaze in awe at its unique murals, which have
stood the test of time for centuries. These castles
display a richness in architecture that reveals the
influence of Arabia as well as Axumite traditions,
and are said to be the largest concentration of
such structures in Africa.
Bahir
Dar, Lake Tana, Blue Nile Falls
A
pleasant surprise occurred on day 3 of our Historic
Route journey through Ethiopia. Following a short
flight on Ethiopian Airlines from Gondar to Bahir
Dar Airport, the gut-wrenching condition of the
road leading west led me to believe our group of 11
journalists would be staying at some dusty lakeside
village. However, like several of my colleagues, I
was completely bowled over when tall palms and
jacarandas suddenly appeared out of the blue. Like
part of a royal procession, we entered a modern,
well laid out community with broad, tree-lined
boulevards. Bahir Dar would rival many seaside
retreats on the Mediterranean or
Florida.
 En
route to Lake Tana, I spotted a huge resort hotel
complex nearing completion &emdash; a sign of
positive things to come. After checking into our
hotel, we boarded a motor launch for a spin around
Lake Tana, which is Ethiopia's largest lake. We're
told there are 37 small islands on the lake, and
most of them shelter monasteries and churches, some
dating back to the 13th century. On most inland
bodies of water of this size, one might encounter
powerboats and sleek sailing craft, but on Lake
Tana in Northern Ethiopia, leisure gives way to
practicality. Here, the waters are alive with a
fleet of 'tankwas' , papyrus canoes, carrying
charcoal and firewood to market in Bahir Dar.
Nature's
Brush, Fields of Gold and Smoke of
Fire
In February, the Jacaranda trees are in full
blossom, painting city boulevards and village
streets in a soft violet hue. It's a signs that
will live in my memory forever. On a peaceful hill
near Emperor Haile Selassie's Bahir Dar palace,
overlooking the Blue Nile, we stopped to mark the
moment on film. How fortunate that the royal
gardeners had the foresight to plant a mile long
stretch of Jacarandas to frame the entrance to this
regal spot.
The
Ahramic name for the Blue Nile Falls is 'Tissisat'
or 'smoke of fire' &emdash; which describes what
many claim to be the most spectacular waterfalls in
Northern Africa. Here a wide body of water drops
over a sheer cliff more than 45 meters deep. In
many photos I have seen, that curtain of spray
kissed by a brilliant rainbow. Speaking of rainbows
and pots of gold &emdash; in September I'm told
it's a sure sign of spring, when the 'Meskel"
flower turns entire hills and fields to
gold.
More to come
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